Our general experience was - eat anywhere - when our favorites were closed we would just check the posted menus for selection and price and then we would have a new favorite.

That said - these were the best of the best (inexpensive to moderate) in our humble opinion.

  1. Ristorante ZaZa - Piazza Mercato Centrale
    get there before 7 or make a reservation
    closed Sunday
    055 21 07 11
  2. Nuti Ristorante
    (order the Gnocchi)
    Borgo San Lorenzo
  3. and diagonally across the street
  4. Giannino's in San Lorenzo
    Borgo San Lorenzo
    www.gianninoinflorence.com
  5. La Grotta Guelfa
    via Pellicceria 5R
    Tel 055 210042
    near the Piazza de Republica
Remember when those heavenly sidewalk cafes look inviting and a cup of cappuccino is beckoning, that they charge you extra just to sit.

Sometimes it's worth it - other times una cappuccino standing up at the local storefront followed by a few minutes sitting inside or on the steps of a nearby Church will make you just as refreshed.

and perhaps a category for shopping

Il Torchio - Legatoria Artigiana
Via dei Bardi, 17
055 2342862
A short detour on the day you choose to walk to Piazzale Michelangelo photograph albums, diaries, frames, small boxes, notebooks all made with hand-decorated Florentine Papers. Sold direct from this workshop - prices elsewhere higher for this quality.

There are many other Legatoria that specialize in leather bound books. The museo del Opera d Duomo also had a nice selection.

The markets around San Lorenzo for souvenirs. Don't be afraid to bargain. You'll see the same stuff a few vendors down if it doesn't work. Most of the vendors speak English.

Food - The small meat, cheese and candy stores as well as the bakery on the corner of (I think, via faenza) along the via Sant' Antonio leading towards the Centrale Mercato and the market itself (only open til 1:30pm) are a feast for the senses and a good source of picnic lunch supplies. Cheese, salami, proscuitto, fruits, that extra special cannoli. Meats and cheese on the first floor of Mercato Centrale and fruits and vegetables on the second.

[more to come...]